SANJAY GARG FESTIVE | 2015

The word ‘Mashru’ comes from the Arabic word ‘shari a’ that means “permitted by Islamic law.” Mashru was developed around the sixteenth century to allow Muslim men to exercise some agency within a rigid sartorial system that prohibited luxury in their lifestyles; in this system, silk was equated with leisure and decadence. Not quite silk, and not quite not, Mashru was a brilliant, highly skilled invention that presented a blurring of binaries in being both silk and cotton. The warp faced satin weave allowed silk to be visible on the surface, giving the fabric its desired shine. Mashru broke a rule within a system, and emerged as a legally ‘permitted’ fabric for men to wear. Mashru came to India through the silk route. It was originally woven in three parts of India: Gujarat, The Deccan and Uttar Pradesh. The colour palettes used to weave Mashru were mostly bright, often striped, and the textile was commonly dotted with motifs. One type of Mashru even used ikat. Despite its versatility, Mashru showed its deep Ottoman and Mughal influences.

Photographed by : Prarthna Singh

 

MESTAN PAJAMA

JAHANZEB JACKET, MEHZUN PAJAMA

RUQAIYA OVERCOAT, DO KALI ABHA (L), MAHAM SKIRT (R)

REHMAT JACKET, MEHZUN PAJAMA

JAHANARA LEHENGA, NADIRA TOP, ERINA DUPATTA

CHE KALI OYA ABH, MEHZUN PAJAMA, LEYLA DUPATTA

JANA DRESS, MEHZUN PAJAMA

ZINAT ABHA, MESTAN PAJAMA (L), NERGIS PHIRAN, PADSHAH PAJAMA (R)

SAHIBA JACKET, OZAN DRESS, RANA PAJAMA

SULTANA ABHA, MALIKA PAJAMA

GULCHEHRA LEHENGA, MELIHA TOP, NADIDE ODHNI

NORIYE ABHA, MEHZUN PAJAMA, ERINA DUPATTA

NORIYE ABHA, MEHZUN PAJAMA, ERINA DUPATTA

SELMA KURTA, OYA PAJAMA, JAHANZEB DUPATTA

KHAN ZADA LEHENGA, ZAINA TOP, ERINA DUPATTA

BARKHA ABHA, MESTAN PAJAMA

SALIMA ABHA, QUSIA PAJAMA

SABIHA OVERCOAT, HAMIDA BANU SKIRT, ZINAT TOP

AAMIRA JACKET, ABIDA KURTA, MEHZUN PAJAMA

MUBARKA JACKET, HANA KURTA, ABIDA PAJAMA

BARKHA DUPATTA

HAFEEZA KURTA, GOYALI SKIRT

FAUZIA DRESS, JAHAN PAJAMA

JAHIDA, MEHZUN PAJAMA (L), SAMAH, INAYAH PAJAMA (R)

REYHANA LEHENGA, SABINA TOP, ERINA DUPATTA

DO KHALI FAHIMA ABHA, FADYAA PAJAMA, ERINA DUPATTA (L)

FARIA ABHA, GHAYDA PAJMA

SANA ABHA, MEHZUN PAJAMA, REHAM DUPATTA

SULTANAH SARI, GULBANU TOP

NASREEN SARI, IMANI TOP